Preparation of perfumes and similar products

ABSTRACT

A METHOD OF IMPROVING THE LASTING AND OTHER CHARACTERISTICS OF PERFUMES AND SIMILAR COSMETIC PRODUCTS CONTAINING AN ALCOHOLIC OR SIMILAR BASE COMPRISING CONTACTING SAID PRODUCTS OR COMPONENTS THEREOF WITH ACTINIC LIGHT WITHIN THE WAVE LENGETH REGION OF 3900 TO 4800 A. FOR A PERIOD OF TIME REACHING UP TO ABOUT 30 MINUTES, PREFERABLY FROM AND 1 TO ABOUT 30 SECONDS. SUCH CONTACTING OF THE PERFUME OR ITS COMPONENT PARTS E.G., ETHYL ALCOHOL BASE, WITH ACTINIC RADIATION PROVIDES FOR LONGER STAYING POWER, ELIMINATION OF THE FLASH BACK A ND ALCOHOL ODOR AND A GENERAL IMPROVEMENT OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PERFUME OR SIMILAR COSMETIC OR TIOLIET ARTICLES.

Sept. 18, 1973 DOCTOR 3,759,806

PREPARATION OF PERFUMES AND SIMILAR PRODUCTS Filed Sept. 9, 1970 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. 1

INVENTOB A N DocTo R ATTORNEYS Sept. 18, 1973 DQCTOR 3,759,806

PREPARATION OF PERFUMES AND SIMILAR PRODUCTS Filed Sept. 9, 1970 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR HYMAN D 'R BY S V ATTORNEYS S p 1973 H. DOCTOR 3,759,805

PREPARATION OF PERFUMES AND SIMILAR PRODUCTS Filed Sept. 9, 1970 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 FIG. 5

INVENTOR HVMAN DocToR M %W ATTORNEYS Sept. 18, 1973 H. DOCTOR 3,759,806

PREPARATION OF PERFUMES ANT) SIMILAR PRODUCTS Filed Sept. 9, 1970 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

INV ENTOR H Ymnm DOCTOR ATTORNEYS United States Patent Hyman International Inc., Staten Island, N.Y.

'Continuation-in-part of abandoned application Ser. No.

854,830, Sept. 3, 1969. This application Sept. 9, 1970,

Ser. No. 70,933

Int. Cl. B013 1/10 US. .Cl. 204-158 R 5 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A methodyof improving the lasting and other characteristics of perfumes and similar cosmetic products containing an alcoholic or similar base comprising contacting said products or components thereof with actinic light within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. for a period of time reaching up to about 30 minutes, preferably from about 1 to about 30 seconds. Such contacting of the perfume or its component parts e.g., ethyl alcohol base, with actinic radiation provides for longer staying power, elimination of the flash back and alcohol odor and a general improvement of the characteristics of the perfume or similar cosmetic or toilet articles.

This application is a continuation-in-part of copending applicationySer. No. 854,830, filed Sept. 3, 1969, now abandoned.

This application is directedto a method of improving the properties of perfumes and other toilet or cosmetic preparations; more particularly, the present invention is directedto a method of improving the characteristics of perfumes, including the staying power, by treating the perfume or its component parts with actinic radiation.

Perfumeryvis among the most ancient of arts, dating back, perhaps, as far as recorded civilization itself. While many of the natural perfume chemicals, such as oil of rose and oil of cloves, still are used today in a form probablyunchanged from that, for example, of the days of Cleopatra, in more recent years research chemists have made a tremendous impact upon the industry by discovering a large number of new synthetic odiferous chemicals possessing characteristics desired in the art. Modern science has, thus, greatly added to the store of materials iavailableto the perfumer and has multiplied the combinations that can be made; nevertheless, it has had very little influence upon the technique by which perfumes are created. The task remains the role of one with highly developed olfactory perception and years of experience who, by skillful choice and the careful blending of ingredientsselectedfrom the vast array available to himand guided only by rule of thumb and trial and error, patiently labors until just the right combination having the. desired qualities has been achieved. In short, perfumes are, indeed, a creation rather than a manufacture, and the successful perfumer is an artist rather than a workman. The efforts of the perfumer are further complicated by the fact that his judgment is not supreme,

but in the finala'nalysis, is subservient to the constantly shifting taste of the consuming public. Even though he may have spent many months just to perfect a product to a point where it is, in his opinion, outstanding, unless countries or localities but were rejected in others.

' Because ofjthe above, it is generally accepted that the perfumer must still exercise his talent in combining and compounding the various perfume chemicals which, while many in number, are still fixed and untangible as to odiferous characteristics. In this regard, the variation or alteration in the scent, quality of perfume or mixture of perfumes has heretofore only been accomplished by the addition of a further ingredient or ingredients having the desired contrasting, supplementing or complimenting qualities. In this regard, until the development of the present invention, no technique has been available by means of which a given perfume composed of one or more components can have its scent and other characteristics significantly changed so as to be perceptible to the skilled perfumer and to the purchasing public.

According to Riegel, Industrial Chemistry, 5th ed., p. 645 (1949), a perfume may be said to consist of three parts: the odoriferous or fragrance-imparting part, the fixative part and the diluent. The odoriferous component, as the name indicates, serves to impart the odor or fragrance to the perfume. Thus, in the creation of a perfume compound, consideration must be given to the intensity of its odor, and sufficient odoriferous constituents are employed to impart the desired fragrance to the final blend. In this way, while the percentage composition of a perfume may indicate a component to be present in rather minor quantity, its contribution to the fragrance of the finished product may be quite dominant.

The fixative serves primarily to control the degree of volatilization of the different, more or less volatile components of the perfume. In some instances these materials may possess their own distinctive odors and contribute as well to the emergent odor. Because of this, a given perfume type :may require a particular fixative which may not be suitable for a perfume of another type.

The function of the perfume diluent or solvent is primarily that of reduction and masking of odor of the blend and in a smaller measure to contribute to the odor of the final product. While various perfume diluents and solvents can be employed, a particularly useful diluent is an aliphatic alcohol, particularly ethyl alcohol. Accordingly, it has been with respect to such perfumes employing such alcoholic bases that considerable research has been conducted in the manner by which such perfumes can be improved so as to increase the lasting or staying properties of the perfume while creating suflicient body in the toilet preparation.

Working with the diluent or solvent portion of the perfume, it has not been discovered in accordance with the present invention that the perfume or similar cosmetic or toilet preparation can be improved with respect to its body, staying power and masking of odor by contacting the perfume or its component parts, i.e., solvent or diluent, or solvent or diluent combined with the odiferous or fragrant imparting essences, with actinic radiation for a period of time sufficient to alter the characteristics of the perfume. In this regard, it has been discovered that a substantial improvement in the characteristics of the perfume or similar cosmetic or toilet article can be produced by subjecting the perfume or its component parts to the action of actinic light within the wave length range of from about 3900 to 4800 A.

Accordingly, it is a principal object of the present invention to provide aprocess for the treatment of perfumes and similar toilet and cosmetic products wherein such process'allows for a modification of the properties of such products in a manner not heretofore associated with previous prior art processes.

It is yet a further object of the present invention to provide a process for the modification of the properties of perfumes wherein longer lasting properties and greater masking properties are associated. with the treatment of a perfume or its component parts with actinic radiation.

A still further object of the present invention relates to a process for, improving the properties of perfumes and similar toilet and cosmetic articles having an alcoholic base wherein such improvement is associated with contacting such products or component parts thereof with actinic radiation within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A.

Still further objects and advantages of the novel process of the present invention will become more apparent from the following more detailed description thereof.

As indicated above, the aforementioned objects and advantages of the of the novel process of the present invention are achieved by contacting the perfume or similar toilet or cosmetic preparation or its component parts with actinic radiation within the wavelength range of 3900 to 4800 A. It is within this wave length range that the treatment of the perfume or its component parts, principally the alcoholic diluent or solvent, provides for an alteration in the character of the preparation so as to allow for enhanced body, greater lasting power, decreased solvent flash-back and a general accelerated maturing or aging of the product. In this later regard, it is pointed out that the best perfumes are generally allowed to age or mature by standing and storage for a limited period of time so as to create a well rounded and full bodied character. The treatment in accordance with the present invention has been found to provide an acceleration of such natural maturing or aging without any prolonged storage or standing period through the action of actinic radiation.

As indicated previously, the process of the present invention can be carried out by contacting the perfume or its constituents with actinic radiation within the wave length region as set forth above. In this regard, either the final perfume consisting of the essences and solvent or diluents may be subjected to the reaction of the light or something less than the final perfume can be subjected to such radiation. Thus, for example, it is possible, in accordance with the present invention, to subject the solvent or diluent alone, i.e., ethyl alcohol or similar material to the action of actinic radiation or a combination of such solvent and diluent with one or more essences making up a portion of the final perfume. In this regard, whether the process of the present invention is conducted with respect to the solvent or diluent alone, the solvent or diluent in admixture with one or more essences making up a small portion of the whole, or with respect to the entire final perfume or similar cosmetic or toilet product, the effect is the same, that is, the treatment in accordance with the present invention provides for a product having a more rounded body, greater lasting power, and other characteristics associated with the finest matured and aged products.

It has further been found in accordance with the present invention, that through the process involving subjecting the perfume or its component parts to the action of actinic radiation, within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A., it is possible to employ solvents or diluents heretofore deemed unsatisfactory for good quality perfumes. In this regard, it has been found that isopropyl alcohol, a material previously not employed due to its unpleasant odor can be advantageously employed as the solvent or diluent in the preparation of a perfume or similar cosmetic or toilet article in that the treatment of the present invention masks 90% or more of the odor of such material. Since this alcohol is one which is very inexpensive, the use of the same in a high quality perfume as proposed in accordance with the present invention allows for great savings and great economy of production of the desired product.

It should also be pointed out with respect to the process of the present invention that while as mentioned previously, the perfume or its component parts can be subjected to the actinic radiation, it is also possible to combine such treatment and subject the component parts to such radiation and thereafter subject the final perfume after the component parts have been combined. Such 4 two-step treatment accentuates the effect associated with the process of the present invention.

Prior to discussing the process of the present invention in more detail, it would appear worth while to mention some of the general characteristics that are desirable in an acceptable perfume and which have been improved in accordance with the process of the present invention.

First of all, a good perfume should have an agreeable top note, that is, a scent fraction that in a profusive way properly penetrates the surrounding environment largely for the purpose of calling attention to'its pres once, or, more precisely, the presence of its wearer. Next, it should possess body, that is, possess a quality of substance rather than being weak and insipid. It should diffuse in an even note, that is, the scent characteristics should not change significantly as the perfume is diluted by the atmosphere. Further, both the middle note and end note should be pleasant, that is, the less volatile fractions which appear after the perfume has been exposed to the atmosphere for a time should be perfumes of quality in themselves, although it is not necessary, or even desirable, that these later notes have the exact characteristics of the top note." Finally, a good perfume must have an extended lasting power so that its fragrance does not quickly disappear.

As mentioned above, it is such characteristics of body, lasting power etc., which have been improved in accordance with the treatment of the present invention.'Accordingly, keeping this in mind, the process of the present invention and its advantages will now be more particularly described.

It is first pointed out that it has been discovered in accordance with the present invention that the treatment in accordance with the process as described above, is not substantially dependent upon the type or nature of the essence employed in the production of the perfume. In this regard, whether the essence if of a natural or synthetic character, the same does not appear to be in any way deteriorated or reduced in quality to the process of the present invention and, in fact, it is hypothesized that many of the essences conventionally employed in the production of perfumes have their odors improved through the treatment to which the perfume or substituent is subjected. In this regard, therefore, the perfume upon which the process of the present invention is conducted may contain any suitable conventionally employed essence of a natural or synthetic character either raw or extracted and with or without the medium by which such essences are extracted. Thus, for example, specific representative essences which are conventionally employed in the production of perfumes include such as: the flower oils, such as rose and jasmin; the essential oils, such as oil of geranium and oil of bergamot; the citrus oils; ambergris; aleo resins extracted from beaver pods and civet as well as the various derivatives and products of refinement, such as rhodinol' from geranium bourbon, geraniol from the citronellas, linalool from bois de rose Cayenne, and many others.

While the above list is representative of those essences which can be employed in perfumes subjected to the process of the present invention, it should be pointed out that there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of essences conventionally employed. In addition, it should be pointed out that commercial perfumes do not generally contain a single essence and a single solvent diluent etc., butin effect contain an essence portion which itself may contain ten, twenty, fifty or even one hundred or more different essences which together make up the fragrance or scent attributed to the commercial product In this regard, as mentioned above, it has been discovered inaccordance with the present invention thatthe nature of the essence or essence portions of the perfume does not effect the process of the present invention in that it has been determined that no deterioration or lessening of the beenficial character of the essences is created with some evidence beingipresent that the treatment of the present invention doesactually' improve the character of the essence portion of the perfume. Thus, for example, a suitable jasminefragrance may comprise the following components: I JASMINE FRAGRANCE Benzyl acetate Benzyl alcohol Linalool Linalyl acetate Terpineol Amyl cinnamic aldehyde Cyclamen aldehyde Ylang ylang oil Benzyl salicyclate 2-nonynal dimethyl acetal 'Phenyl ethyl alcohol Decyl aldehyde Ehenyl acetaldehyde I Methyl ionone ,Iso-cyclo icitral V 2 nonynal dimethyl acetal Citronellol ,R Geraniol Phenyl ethyl alcohol 7 Nerol j 'Methylionone Phenylacetic acid (10% strength) Phenylacetaldehyde 10% strength) Diisopropylpyrocatechol ketal Nonyl aldehyde (10% strength) In a. likemanner, a suitableor iental perfume oil pine r oil, santal oil'o'r apple blossom oil may be composed of the following essence components:

Beta-(4-methyl-A3-cycldhexeriyl) butyraldehyde 6 PINE OIL Bornyl acetate Geranium oil Cassia oil Clove oil Petitgrain oil Lavender oil Bergamot oil Terebene Musk ambrette Coumarin Patchouli oil Beta-(4-methyl-cyclohexyl)butyraldehyde SANTAL OIL Sandalwood oil Cedar-wood oil Clove oil Cassia oil Patchouli oil Geranium oil Cananga oil Bergamot oil Musk ambrette Coumarin Oakmoss absolute Beta-(4-methyl-A3-cyclohexenyl) butyraldehyde APPLE BLOSSOM OIL Terpineol Bois de rose oil Cananga oil Phenylethyl alcohol Benzaldehyde Benzyl alcohol Peru balsam Gamma undecalactone Musk xylene Heliotropin Phenylacetaldehyde Beta-(4-methyl-A3-cyclohexenyl) butyraldehyde In carrying out the process of the present invention, the perfume or its components parts are contacted with the actinic radiation in the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. for a period of time ranging from about 2 seconds to about 30 minutes. Preferably, the time of subjecting the perfume or its component parts to the actinic radiation is from a period of from about 2 seconds to about 30 seconds. Within this time period and within the wave length region set forth above, it has been found possible to improve the characteristics of the perfume in a manner in which it was heretofore impossible with previous processes.

In addition to the above described parameters with respect to the process of the present invention, it has also been found that the intensity of the light incident upon the perfume or its component parts may to some extent effect the characteristics of the final product and the extent to which the same are effected by the treatment of the present invention. In this regard, it has been discovered, in order to provide a perfume having the best possible properties, the light incident upon the perfume or its component parts should be within the range of 2 10 to 5 X10 quanta/secJcmF. It is within this intensity and the above noted wave length region that it has been found possible to irradiate the perfume or its component parts in order to provide a product having greater body, less alcohol flash-back, a longer staying power and an artifically matured or aged character.

In addition, it has been discovered in accordance with the present invention that to some extent the time or period of irradiation is inversely proportional to the intensity of the actinic light incident upon the perfumed! its component parts. Thus, for example, if a maximum time of irradiation is employed, the intensity of light can be at or near the minimum level described aboveQit'being inversely true that if a short or minimum period of irradiation is employed, the intensity of the light incident upon the perfume or its component parts can be or should be at the maximum level. Thus, there is an inverse linear relationship between the time of irradiation and the intensity of the light incident upon the perfume or its component parts, the precise intensity and time to be employed for any particular effect with respect to any particular perfume or its components is a matter which can be easily determined.

In accordance with the process of the present invention, it has been discovered that the temperature of the perfume or its component part does not, to any extent, effect the treatment to which the perfume is subjected. Accordingly, when passing the perfume or its component parts in contact with the actinic radiation, the perfume can be at room or elevated temperatures or slightly chilled depending upon the various conditions employed in production. In this regard, temperature is found to be a noncritical characteristic of the process of the present invention which need not be controlled to any great extent.

The process of the present invention is conducted by passing the perfume or its component parts through an apparatus adapted to subject the perfume to the action of actinic light for a time period and an intensity as described above. In this regard, it has been found in accordance with the present invention that a particularly effective type of apparatus is such as described in US. Pat. 3,037,116. Such patent discloses an apparatus for irradition through which a liquid can be passed and forced to follow a tortuous path so that the liquid is irradiated as a thin film of, for example, 2-50 mm. in thickness. Such an apparatus, of course, can be advantageously employed in accordance with the process of the present invention by which the perfume or its components are irradiated with actlnic light by one or more passes of the same before the light source. It is, of course, obvious that other equivalent apparatus capable of subjecting the perfume or its component parts to the action of actinic light as afore described can be advantageously employed in accordance with the instant process.

Similarly, as indicated above, the effects of the process of the present invention are most pronounced when the solvent employed in the production of the perfume is an alcohol, primarily ethyl alcohol. It should be pointed out, however, that where other diluents or solvents are employed in addition to ethyl alcohol or in lieu of ethyl alcohol, the same type of improvement is seen to exist. This is apparently due to the fact that the irradiation of the perfume or its component parts acts to accentuate the relationship between the essences and the solvents or diluents, such that a final product is produced having a fuller body and a longer staying power. Accordingly, other conventional diluents or solvents such as other volatile aliphatic alcohols, oils or other suitably employed conventional solvents or diluents can be advantageously employed in accordance with the process of the present invention. In addition, as was pointed out previously, by subjecting the perfume or its constituents to the action of actinic radiation, it has been discovered that it is possible to employ a diluent or solvent such as isopropanol, which material was heretofore deemed unsatisfactory due to its unpleasant odor. The process of the present invention, however, is seen to mask the odor or alter the odor of the isopropanol to such an extent as to make this inexpensive medium a suitable solvent or diluent for the finest quality perfumes.

It is further pointed out with respect to the present invention, that while the above discussion has been presented with respect to perfumes, it is also obvious that other related cosmetic and toilet preparations can be advantageously treated in accordance with the instant process. Thus, for example, the process of the present invention is applicable to colognes, toilet waters, after shave lotions, bath oils, deodorants, hair and scalp preparations and other fragrances employed for cosmetic or toilet purposes. In this regard, as employed throughout the instant specification and claims, the expression perfume is meant to embrace any and all such preparations which, owing to the presence of a diluent and solvent and essence, can be effectively treated in accordance with the instant process.

While it is quite true that the process of the present invention can be conducted with regard to the diluent portion, the essences, or the final perfume it ispreferred in accordance with the present invention to treat the diluent or solvent fraction e.g., ethyl alcohol prior to combining the same with the essences or oils in the production of the final perfume product. Thus by treating the solvent or diluent portion prior to compounding it is possibleto further accentuate the improvement in the longer staying power, elimination of the flash back and alcohol odor and other general characteristics of the perfume product. Accordingly, such treatment of the diluent or solvent fraction in accordance with the present invention constitutes a preferred embodiment of the instant process.

As indicated previously the principal component of the diluent or solvent portion of a perfume, toilet water, cologne, deodorant or similar cosmetic or toilet preparation constitutes ethyl alcohol. While pure ethyl alcohol, 200 proof, can be utilized in the preparation of cosmetic and toilet preparations, the ethyl alcoholthat is generally utilized in the solvent or diluent portion of the perfume, etc., generally comprises one of many denatured ethyl alcohols which have been specifically formulated for per fumes and other similar products; Thus, for example, suitable denatured alcohols which have been specifically designated for use in perfumes and similar products include such materials as SDA 38-B, SDA 39, SDA 39-B, SDA 39-C, SDA 40 and SDA 40-A. All of the foregoing denatured alcohols are prepared by adding to the ethyl alcohol a specifically defined amount of a denaturantso that the ethyl alcohol is no longer fit for internal consumption. As for example with regard to SDA 38-B such denatured alcohol is prepared by adding to every gallons of ethyl alcohol 10 pounds of a specifically defined oil. Additionally for example SDA 39 is prepared by adding to every 100 gallons of ethyl alcohol 9 pounds of sodium salicylate or salicylic acid, 1.25 gallons fluid extract of quassia and gallon of tert-butyl alcohol. Similarly SDA 39-B is prepared by denaturing every 100 gallons of ethyl alcohol with two and one-half gallons of diethyl phthalate and gallon of tert-butyl alcohol. SDA 39-C is prepared by denaturing every 100 gallons of ethyl alcohol with one gallon of diethyl phthalate while SDA 40 is prepared by adding to every 100 gallons of ethyl alcohol one and one-half ounces of brucine or brucine sulfate or quassin or one and one-half ounces of the foregoing and /8 gallon of tert-butyl alcohol. Similarly SDA 40-A is prepared by denaturing every 100 gallons of ethyl alcohol with one pound of sucrose octaacetate and A; gallon of tert-butyl alcohol.

While the foregoing denatured alcohol preparations are specifically suitable for use in perfumes, other toilet preparations can be provided by the use of other conventional denatured alcohols. Thus for example in addition to the foregoing denatured alcohols deodorants can be prepared utilizing SDA 23-A while hair and scalp preparations can be produced utilizing an alcohol system such as SDA 3-B, SDA 23-F, SDA 23-H, SDA 37, SDA 39-D etc. Similarly shampoos and similar preparations can be produced from denatured alcohol systems such as SDA 3-A, SDA 3-B, SDA 23-A, SDA 27-B, SDA 31- A, SDA 36 etc. Here again each of the foregoing denatured alcohols is conventional and any of the same can be advantageously treated in accordance with the present invention. For additional reference to such denatured alcohols, including specific formulations and physical characteristics mention is made of the ethyl alcohol handbook, U.S.I. Chemicals National Distillers and Chemical Corporation, the disclosure of which is herein incorporated by reference.

In addition to the foregoing denatured alcohol systems which can be advantageously utilized in accordance with the present invention it is quite obvious that the present invention is applicable to other synthetic alcohols as Well as fermentation alcohols utilized in the production of perfumes and similar cosmetic and toilet preparations. Accordingly the treatment of alcohols, specifically ethyl alcohol through radiation with actinic light in the wave region of 3900 to 4800 A. constitutes a specific preferred embodiment of the present invention, when such alcohols are later utilized as the solvent or diluent portion of a perfume, toilet water, cologne, deodorant, bath oil or similar cosmetic and toilet preparation.

With regard to such alcohols it is pointed out again that any of the aforementioned denatured alcohols or ethyl alcohol derived from sugar, corn etc. i.e., naturally fermented alcohol or a synthetic alcohol made from petro chemicals can be advantageously utilized. It is often preferred to employ fermentation alcohols in such products as colognes and toilet waters since the odor of the synthetic alcohols is not considered equal to the fermentation ethyl alcohol. In accordanace with the present invention however the use of the treatment with actinic light Within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. allows for the production of synthetic alcohols which have less flash back and alcohol odor. Accordingly through the process of the present invention any of the conventional alcohol materials can be advantageously utilized in the production of a superior perfume or similar toilet preparation. It is further pointed out with respect to the present invention, that since the art of perfumery is so complicated, it is sometimes difficult to make generalizations with respect to any particular procedure. It can be generalized, however, in accordance with the present invention, that any suitable perfume which consists of a fragrance and solvent or diluent portion can be treated in accordance with the process of the present invention so as to create those outstanding properties which have been described above. In this regard, to reiterate, it is pointed out that by subjecting the perfume or its component parts to the action of actinic radiation within the parameters as described above, it is possible to provide a perfume having a fuller body, longer lasting power and less solvent flash back. In addition, due to the fact that the process of the present invention tends to accelerate aging or maturing of the perfume, a product of the highest possible quality is obtained.

The preparation of perfume extracts, toilet waters, after shave lotions, colognes, etc., does not usually present much difficulty and, in fact, various methods have been developed to obtain clear products having acceptable olfactory characteristics. In preparing such products, it is the general practice to follow a few well recognized steps. In this regard, for the preparation of perfume extracts, it is customary to employ a 95% alcohol solvent and an 80% to 95% solvent for toilet waters etc. In such alcohol, perfume oils are usually soluble in all proportions. In this regard it has been found that the quality of the alcohol plays an important role in the characteristics of the perfume, it generally being necessary to choose an alcohol entirely devoid from any foreign odor and denatured with an odorless substance.

Generally, the amount of perfume oils employed in the perfume extracts varies between 150 to 200 grams per liter of solution and from 30 to 50 grams per liter of solution in toilet waters. It is, of course, obvious that slightly greater or lesser amounts of the perfume oils can be employed depending upon the strength of the essence and desired product etc. Thus, for example, a suitable perfume extract may-be prepared by the addition of about 18% perfume oil and an alcohol of 95%. For toilet water, for example, of perfume oil may be added to an 80% alcohol while for the production of a masculine toilet water, 3% of the perfume may be added to the alcohol. Such amounts, of course, are only exemplary and do not form a portion of the present invention which, as indicated previously is concerned with the treatment of any and all perfumes and similar products and component parts thereof with actinic radiation under the conditions described above.

In preparing the perfume or similar product, the mix ture of perfume oils is generally first prepared and allowed to stand for a period of 48 hours or longer. Such perfume oils are poured into the alcohol solvent or diluent and stirred. In a conventional production of perfumes the solution of perfume oils in alochol is kept for at least 3 months in a hermetically closed vessel so that the alcohol does not evaporate, with shaking from time to time. During this period of standing, the product will mature and the waxes or resins which are only slightly soluble in the alcohol will be deposited. It is this standing for at least 3 months effecting a maturation of the perfume or similar product which can be reduced somewhat in accordance with the present invention in that an artificial maturing or aging of the product is produced through the treatment with actinic radiation.

The solution of perfume oils or essences and alcohol is then cooled to a temperature of between 0 and minus 5 C. and filtered. In connection with such filtering, a filtering aid can be used to assist in the removal of the waxes and resins. It is noted, however, that certain filtering aids tend to absorb certain constituents of the perfume oils and thus, under some conditions, may alter the olfactory characteristics of the extract. After filtering the solution of perfume oils, it is again brought to normal room temperature and poured into suitable containers for sale. With respect to this procedure, it is pointed out again that, the process of the present invention can be carried out on the alcohol alone, on the perfume oils alone, on a mixture of one or more perfume oils or extracts with the solvent or diluent, or on the total perfume prepared after addition of all perfume oils and essences to the solvent. In any of these cases, the treatment of the perfume or its component parts with actinic radiation under the conditions described above effects the advantages set forth previously with respect to the production of a product having a fuller body with less solvent flash-back etc.

It is additionally pointed out with respect to the process of the present invention that it is quite difficult to describe or characerize the changes which are observed by the treatment to which the perfume or its component parts are subjected in accordance with the process of the present invention. In this regard, opinions with respect to odors and odor purities are founded on a more or less developed sense of smell or on the olfactory capabilities of an individual influenced to a greater or lesser degree by his preconceived personal likes and dislikes. However, it will be noted from the following specific examples that, where possible, analysis of the perfume samples before and after treatment were made so as to present some idea of the nature of the chemical change which is affected by treating the perfume or its component parts with actinic radiation under the conditions set forth above. Accordingly, the process of the present invention will now be described by reference to the following specific examples.

EXAMPLE 1 In order to determine the effectiveness of the process of the present invention in altering and ameliorating the olfactory characteristics of perfumes and similar products various commercial perfumes were subjected to irradiation in accordance with the present invention.

The perfumes were passed through apparatus such as described in the US. Pat. 3,037,116 for periods of time ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes. After subjecting the perfumes to the treatment with actinic radiation within the wavelength region of 3900 to 4800 A; the perfumes were analysed by a gas chromatogram and physically observed by those skilled in noting differences in perfumes and other fragrances. The gas chromatographic analysis of the samples, both treated and untreated, were made so as to obtain an indication of the chemical change effected through the treatment of the perfume in accordance with the present invention. The analyses were made by passing the treated and untreated perfumes through a column 6 feet long and having an inside diameter of Mt mm. A helium carrier gas was employed and the temperature of the column was maintained at 150 to 200 C. with a detector maintained at a temperature of 275 C. Such apparatus was a conventional gas chromatogram.

The perfumes subjected to the process of the present invention were:

(a) Dunhill Arpege (c) My Sin Each of the above perfumes was subjected to the action of actinic light for a period of 30 seconds. In addition, a further sample of My Sin was subjected to the action of actinic light for periods of 10 and 30 minutes. In all cases, a difference in the olfactory characteristics of the perfumes was noticed after the perfumes had been subjected to the radiation. The difference was more pronounced when the perfumes were allowed to stand for a short period of time after being subjected to actinic radiation and prior to the smell comparison. Thus, for example, a greater difference between the irradiated and non-irradiated sample was observed when the smell comparison was made some 48 hours after irradiation.

The gas chromatograms resulting from the analyses of the untreated and treated perfumes are shown in FIGS. 1 through 8.

FIG. 1 is the gas chromatogram of a natural Dunhill perfume not subjected to the process of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a gas chromatogram of the same Dunhill perfume after being subjected to the action of actinic radiation for a period of 30 seconds;

FIG. 3 is a gas chromatogram of a natural Arpege perfume not subjected to the process of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a gas chromatogram of the same perfume after having been subjected to the action of actinic radiation for a period of 10 minutes;

FIG. 5 is a gas chromatogram of natural My Sin perfume not subjected to the process of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a gas chromatogram of the same perfume after having been subjected to the action of actinic radiation for a period of 30 seconds;

FIG. 7 is a gas chromatogram of the same My Sin perfume after having been. subjected to the action of actinic radiation for a period of minutes;

FIG. 8 is a gas chromatogram of the same My Sin perfume after having been subjected to the action of actinic radiation for a period of 30 minutes.

It will be noted from a comparison of the curves representing the same treated and untreated perfume that a difference in the chemical structure of the perfume was brought about by subjecting the perfume to the action of actinic radiation. In this regard, comparing FIGS. 1 and 2, it is noted that in FIG. 1 a slight shoulder is prominent in the curve just above A. Whereas in FIG. 2, this appears as a definite peak. Similarly, the relative heights of peaks B and C have changed between FIGS. 1 and 2, again indicating a change in the chemical constituency of the perfume composition. A similar effect is seen between the relative intensities of peaks D and E and the relative intensities of peaks D and F in FIGS. 1 and 2.

Similarly, a comparison of FIGS. 3 and 4 indicates that the relative intensities of peaks A and B have changed and that the relative intensities of peaks E and F have been reversed. In addition, peaks C and D are seen to be With respect to FIGS. 7 and 8, similar changes can be noticed. In this connection,.comparing FIGS. 7 and .8 with FIG. 5, the gas chromatogram for the My Sin perfume not treated in accordance with the present invention.

it is seen that there are some definite changes. In this regard, the difference in FIG. 8 is even greater, indicating again that the degree of change brought about by the process of the present invention is effected by the length of time to which the sample is subjected to the actinic radiation. In this regard, it will be noted that peaks C and D show a slight but definite reversal in FIGS. 7 and 8.

It is pointed out with respect to the above changes that while the same have not been precisely determined to the extent of characterizing the peaks in the gas chromatograms, it is pointed out that in all cases the chemical changes do occur and were noticed when the perfumes were sampled by at least three different people. Accordingly, the gas chromatograms merely fortify the observances of the samplers by showing that there are some definite chemical changes when the perfumes are treated with actinic radiation in accordance with the process of the present invention.

EXAMPLE 2 In a similar manner as in Example 1, the following perfume extracts were subjected to actinic radiation within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. for times ranging from 2 seconds to 10 minutes:

(a) Bouquet G 479 bis (b) Bouquet G 805 (c) Bouquet G 799 (d) Bouquet G 839/2 (e) Bouquet G 851/2 (f) Bouquet G 742/2 (g) Bouquet G 780 In a similar manner, the following essences useful in the preparation of toilet waters was subjected to actinic radiation under the above described conditions.

(a) Parfum Lotion 1404/3 (b) Parfum Lotion 1404/2 (c) Parfum Lotion 469 (d) Parfum Lotion 1200 (e) Parfum Lotion 1152 (f) Parfum Lotion 1118 (g) Parfum Lotion 1497 EXAMPLE 3 A sample of isopropyl alcohol was subjected to irradia tion in accordance with the present invention, the sample being exposed to actinic radiation within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. for a period of time of 30 seconds. Such isopropyl alcohol prior to treatment in accordance with the process of the present invention is unsuitable for use as a solvent or diluent in the preparation of perfumes or similar products due to its very unpleasant odor. However, after treatment in accordance with the present invention for a period of time of only 30 seconds it was found that at least of the odor hadbeen masked, making this inexpensive alcohol suite able as a solvent or diluent in the preparation of perfumes and similar products. The essences of Example 2 were employed to prepare perfumes, feminine toilet waters and masculine toilet waters utilizing the isopropyl alcohol subjected to treatment in accordance with the process of the present invention. For the perfume, the extracts were employed in an amount of 18% in a 95% alcohol; or toilet waters, the essences were employed in an amount of in an 80% alcohol; and for masculine toilet waters, the essences were employed in an amount of 3% in an 80% alcohol.

In all cases, the perfumes and toilet waters produced using the isopropyl alcohol were found to have a very pleasant full body and desirable olfactory characteristics.

EXAMPLE 4 Various commercial grade synthetic denatured alcohols were treated in accordance with the present invention by subjecting the same to actinic light within the wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. The alcohols that were utilized were those which contain 95% alcohol (5% water) and 100% alcohol. The former group are designated as regular alcohols and the latter as anhydrous alcohols. All the untreated alcohol was stored in glass bottles and kept at room tempertaure and 5 different samples were treated by exposure to actinic light within the Wave length region of 3900 to 4800 A. for different time intervals.

Samples were run on SDA 40 alcohols and SDA 39-C alcohols, utilizing both the regular and anhydrous alcohols. Time exposures to the light was varied from 3 seconds to 30 seconds. Exposures were run at 3 seconds, 5 seconds, seconds, seconds, seconds, seconds and seconds. After being exposed to the actinic light an odor evaluation was conducted by direct application of the alcohol to a perfume blotter and by diluting the alcohol with distilled water in a ratio of 2:1 and evaluation in snifters.

Such odor evaluation of the SDA and SDA 39-C alcohols resulted in that the alcohols which were subjected to the actinic light were picked over an untreated alcohol of the same type by 2 to 1. This clearly indicates that 14 the treatment of the denatured alcohol results in an improvement of the alcohol odor, which improvement is carried over to the perfume product into which the alcohol is formulated.

What is claimed is:

1. A process for the treatment of a perfume, comprising an essence portion and a denatured ethanol, so as to improve its olfactory characteristics, which process comprises subjecting said perfume, or a component part thereof, selected from the denatured ethanol alone or a mixture of the denatured ethanol and less than the total essence portion to actinic radiation from a lamp source, said radiation being within the wave length region of 3,900 to 4,800 A. for a period of time of from about 2 seconds to about 30 seconds at an intensity of from 2 l0 to 5 10 quanta/seconds/cmfi, with the proviso that when the denatured ethanol alone or denatured ethanol and less than the total essence is irradiated, the final perfume is prepared by adding non-irradiated essence to the irradiated component.

2. The process of claim 1 wherein said component part of said perfume is subjected to said actinic radiation.

3. The process of claim 2 wherein said component part of said perfume subjected to said actinic radiation is the denatured ethanol.

4. The process of claim 2 wherein said component part of said perfume subjected to said actinic radiation is a solution of denatured ethanol and one or more natural or synthetic essences.

5. A perfume produced in accordance with the process of claim 1.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 9/1970 Heckert 204158 R 2/1971 Kropp 204-158 R HOWARD S. WILLIAMS, Primary Examiner 

